As for the wind and waves—
Wang Ye ca precisely for the big winds and waves,
how could he fear them?
He intended to face the wind and waves head-on.
Wang Ye maintained a speed of about 150 miles per hour as he drove,
a few minutes later, he finally arrived next to Cortes Beach.
He parked the car beside the beach.
And took out the surfing suit and surfboard from the trunk.
There were only a few scattered small fishing villages around here.
Almost no light pollution from cities.
So the beach was pitch black.
Ordinary people would need to use a strong flashlight to barely see anything.
Wang Ye turned off the truck’s headlights.
Standing on the pitch-black beach, he controlled his pupils to continuously adjust.
Gradually enlarging them to 1.5 tis their usual size, and the color turned light blue.
The lighter the pupil color, the better his night vision capability.
The deeper the pupil color, the more bright light it could withstand.
Wang Ye’s current control of his pupils to a lighter color endowed him with night vision far superior to nocturnal creatures like cats. Even in this extrely dark night, he could see the sand beneath his feet clearly.
After completing all this,
Wang Ye carried his surfboard to the edge of the sea.
He could see waves crashing onto the beach, reaching his calves.
In the distance, waves like hills rolled rapidly on the sea surface.
They seed about four or five ters high by visual estimation, not too dangerous,
a perfect height for surfing.
"Since there are waves... let’s give it a try first."
Wang Ye stepped into the sea, and as the water reached his waist, he laid the surfboard on the water’s surface.
This surfboard was made of PE polyethylene blanks, very light yet strong, capable of easily floating a person on the water, partly thanks to the buoyancy of seawater,
which usually contains many salt components, increasing the water’s density.
According to Archides’ principle, buoyancy is proportional to the liquid’s density, so seawater’s buoyancy is greater than freshwater’s.
However, due to the high flow rate of seawater and unstable waves, it remains very dangerous despite the great buoyancy.
"My first ti surfing in the field, I wonder if I can exhibit the level from training before."
Wang Ye got on the surfboard, starting to search for nearby waves.
He lay prone on the board, using his Skilled Swimming to propel the water.
Making the surfboard move forward.
The continuous incoming waves made Wang Ye on the surfboard wobble constantly, like riding a roller coaster, floating up one mont, diving down the next.
Fortunately, he had mastered excellent surfing Skills, stabilizing his body’s center of gravity amidst this level of turbulence was as easy as eating and drinking water for him.
But he still didn’t dare to relax his vigilance one bit.
Because even he couldn’t predict when a massive wave or whirlpool might suddenly rise from the sea ahead.
Along the beach, the deadliest threat is the rip current, responsible for 90% of seaside drowning incidents. A rip current is a narrow, strong current created by the interaction of waves and underwater terrain, usually within 1~3 tis the width of the surf zone offshore, with a width alongshore of 10~500 ters, and a depth of 1~10 ters. Its duration varies, and flow speed can reach up to 3~4 ters per second, swiftly dragging people into deep water, being one of the main causes of drowning incidents.
If swept away by such a rip current, not even Wang Ye could be sure he’d swim back in ti,
and now it’s night, influenced by tidal phenona, the sea level rises, waves surge, with the most terrifying flow speed, capable of engulfing a person from the beach in an instant.
Tidal phenona are caused by the Moon and Sun’s gravitational pull on Earth.
The Moon and Sun’s gravity causes periodic rises and falls in sea levels, so the sea waves at night are often larger than during the day.
Furthermore, with almost no light at night, no one dares to surf at night.
Surfing on such a pitch-black night, perhaps only Wang Ye in the world dares to do it.
Keep in mind that surfing heavily relies on eyesight, catching the mont and details of riding waves requires the eyes, if the darkness blinded vision, even the world’s best surfer couldn’t surf normally.
While Wang Ye lay waiting for the right mont,
a wave over three ters high suddenly rolled in.
Just as the surfboard was lifted, he imdiately seized the mont to stand up,
his legs rooted on the surfboard like tree roots,
adjusting his center of gravity to steer.
He tid it very precisely, the instant he stood up, the barrel wave ca crashing down overwhelmingly.
Whoosh—
Wang Ye’s body leaned right, diving down ahead of the wave, avoiding the barrel wave crashing behind him. The giant wave behind him followed closely like a terrifying Sea Monster, trying to lift him onto the wave or plunge him into the seabed, forming a delicate balance.
In his control, his diving speed increased rapidly, like a motorboat speeding across the sea surface, the surfboard beneath his feet skimming over the sea at high speed, if not for Wang Ye’s 150-kilogram weight firmly pressing down, the surfboard might have flown off. The surfboard’s trail was left with a white wake of tiny bubbles, due to his speed causing a reduction in pressure below the water’s saturation vapor pressure at that temperature, resulting in the physical phenonon of vaporization in seawater.
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